São Martinho in Portugal: The Traditions Behind Chestnut Season

Every November, the smell of roasted chestnuts fills the streets of Portugal. Small charcoal braziers appear on pavements, vendors prepare paper cones of steaming chestnuts, and families and friends gather to celebrate one of the country's best-loved autumn traditions.

This is São Martinho, celebrated on 11 November. Known for its magustos, roasted chestnuts and traditional drinks, the day brings together food, folklore and the customs of rural Portugal.

For visitors discovering Porto in autumn, São Martinho offers an opportunity to experience a different side of Portuguese culture: one rooted in the agricultural calendar, local traditions and the pleasure of sharing food around a table.

What is São Martinho in Portugal?

São Martinho, or Saint Martin's Day, is celebrated every year on 11 November in honour of Martin of Tours, a Christian saint who lived during the fourth century.

In Portugal, the date is closely associated with the arrival of chestnut season and the tradition of tasting the year's new wine. It is also a time for magustos, gatherings where people roast chestnuts over an open fire and enjoy traditional seasonal drinks.

The celebration is particularly familiar in northern and central Portugal, where chestnut-growing areas and wine-producing communities have long been connected to these autumn customs.

One popular Portuguese saying captures the spirit of the day:

“No dia de São Martinho, vai à adega e prova o vinho.”

In English: “On Saint Martin's Day, go to the wine cellar and taste the wine.”

It is a reminder of the close relationship between the celebration, the harvest and Portugal's wine culture.

The legend behind São Martinho and the famous autumn sunshine

One of the best-known stories associated with Saint Martin tells of a Roman soldier travelling on horseback during a cold, stormy day.

Along the road, he encountered a poorly dressed beggar struggling against the weather. Martin took his military cloak, cut it in half with his sword and gave one part to the man to keep him warm.

According to the legend, the storm suddenly cleared and the sun appeared.

This story is traditionally associated with the expression Verão de São Martinho, or the São Martinho summer: a short spell of warmer, sunnier weather that sometimes arrives in Portugal around the beginning of November.

It is a familiar expression in Portuguese everyday life, often used when the autumn weather briefly feels more like summer.

What is a magusto?

A magusto is a traditional Portuguese gathering centred around roasting and sharing chestnuts.

Traditionally, people would gather outdoors around a bonfire, cooking chestnuts directly in the embers. The occasion was an opportunity for neighbours, families and friends to spend time together after the autumn harvest.

Today, magustos take place in schools, associations, workplaces, villages and towns throughout Portugal. Some are small family gatherings, while others are community celebrations with music, food and large fires.

Although the details vary from place to place, the essential ingredients remain much the same: chestnuts, fire, wine and good company.

Why are chestnuts so important?

Chestnuts have been part of Portuguese food culture for centuries, particularly in rural and mountainous areas.

Before potatoes became a widespread staple, chestnuts were an important source of nourishment in many communities. They could be eaten roasted, boiled, dried or ground into flour.

Their autumn harvest coincides with São Martinho, making them a natural part of the celebration.

During November, roasted chestnuts are also a familiar sight in Portuguese cities. Street vendors prepare them in traditional metal braziers, serving them hot in paper cones.

If you walk through Porto during this time of year, you may notice the smoke drifting through the streets and the distinctive aroma of chestnuts roasting nearby.

What do people eat and drink on São Martinho?

Although roasted chestnuts are the main attraction, São Martinho is also associated with traditional Portuguese drinks and seasonal food.

Castanhas assadas – roasted chestnuts

The classic São Martinho food is undoubtedly the roasted chestnut.

Cooked over hot embers until the shells become dark and the inside turns soft, chestnuts are usually served hot with a little salt.

They are commonly sold in paper cones on Portuguese streets throughout the autumn. Their slightly sweet, earthy flavour makes them one of the season's most recognisable tastes.

Vinho novo – new wine

São Martinho is traditionally associated with tasting vinho novo, meaning new wine.

This is the wine produced from the most recent grape harvest, often enjoyed while still young and fresh. The custom reflects the agricultural calendar: by November, the grapes have been harvested and the first wines of the season are beginning to become available.

The tradition is especially meaningful in Portugal's wine-producing regions, including the Douro Valley.

Jeropiga – a traditional sweet drink

Jeropiga is a traditional Portuguese grape-based drink made by adding grape spirit to fresh grape must. The spirit stops fermentation, preserving much of the must's natural sweetness.

The result is a sweet, aromatic and relatively strong drink, often enjoyed alongside roasted chestnuts during the São Martinho season.

Água-pé – a lighter traditional drink

Água-pé is another traditional drink associated with the celebration.

It is made by adding water to grape pomace, the skins, seeds and remaining grape material left after pressing. The resulting drink has a lower alcohol content than conventional wine.

Although less commonly encountered in everyday bars today, água-pé remains part of Portugal's traditional wine culture.

How is São Martinho celebrated in Porto and northern Portugal?

São Martinho is celebrated across Portugal, but northern Portugal has a particularly strong connection to its chestnut and wine traditions.

In the Porto region, the arrival of November brings roasted chestnut vendors to city streets. Community associations, schools and local organisations may also organise magustos, creating opportunities for people to gather and celebrate.

Beyond Porto, the tradition is closely connected to the agricultural life of the Douro and Trás-os-Montes regions, where chestnuts and wine have long played an important role in local economies and food culture.

In towns and villages, celebrations may include communal bonfires, traditional music, regional food and tastings of new wine.

The exact programme varies each year, so it is worth checking local council and community announcements if you would like to attend a particular event.

São Martinho and Portuguese wine culture

The connection between São Martinho and wine is particularly interesting in a country with such a diverse winemaking tradition.

The saying about visiting the wine cellar on Saint Martin's Day reflects an old agricultural custom: tasting the new wine after the grape harvest.

In the Douro Valley, the same region responsible for producing Port wine, the November season is a reminder that Portuguese winemaking extends well beyond fortified wines.

The country produces an extraordinary variety of still red, white and rosé wines, shaped by different climates, soils and native grape varieties.

For anyone visiting Porto, this is a good opportunity to explore more of Portugal's wine culture. A glass of Douro red, a fresh Vinho Verde or a traditional Port wine each tells a different story about the country's relationship with its vineyards.

Experience Portuguese traditions during your visit to Porto

Understanding a place often starts with its everyday traditions. In Portugal, São Martinho brings together several things that remain important to local culture: seasonal food, wine, community gatherings and the stories passed down through generations.

Whether it is the smell of chestnuts roasting on a street corner, a glass of new wine shared among friends or a traditional magusto in a nearby town, November offers a glimpse into a side of Portugal that goes beyond its monuments and landmarks.

And if there is one Portuguese saying worth remembering this time of year, it is this:

“No dia de São Martinho, lume, castanhas e vinho.”

On Saint Martin's Day: fire, chestnuts and wine.